Step by step: sowing peas

Step by step: sowing peas

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Peas, we like it or we don't like it! There are those who love it, the pleasure of the round shape and the spring color adding to that of the taste buds. For the others, who do not appreciate its slightly sweet taste, there remains at least the pleasure of shelling them and seeing these little green balls escape in all directions, which sometimes also give a hard time to the fork. Although the pea is not limited to this emblematic form. Certain varieties can be tasted directly in the form of pods, without shelling. As for the cultivation of peas, it is fairly easy to succeed, provided that the plants do not suffer from drought: the harm can be irreparable! What do we like about vegetables? The collection is done at breast height, without prolonged squatting, always painful.

What are the varieties of peas?

Here are the main families of peas that exist: - Dwarf or semi-dwarf peas with round grains, - Dwarf or semi-dwarf peas with wrinkled grains, - Ream peas with round grains, - Ream peas with wrinkled grains , - Snow peas (their flat pods are eaten whole).

When to sow?

Round peas have good resistance to cold, which means that they can be sown in February or, even on the ocean front and in the south, from the end of autumn for an early harvest in spring. The wrinkled grain varieties will wait March-April, and until June, to be planted. Harvesting takes place on average three to four months after planting. A gourmet tip? Sow little, but regularly (every 10 days for example), in order to stagger your production from spring to autumn. Difficulty : easy Cost : less than 5 € the 100 g sachet Necessary material : - A cord - A watering can - A mop

Step 1: Prepare the soil

Your peas will plant in loosened, level, weed-free soil. Also remove the stones that would hinder the emergence of the seeds.

Step 2: Draw the grooves

Use a line to draw straight and aligned grooves, 5 cm deep. If you do not have a line, make one very simply by attaching a string to the ends of two stakes.

Step 3: Plant the seeds

Space the seeds 2 to 3 cm apart.
The seeds being large and clearly visible, there is no difficulty there, unlike radish sowing for example! If you are sowing several rows, count 50 cm spacing for dwarf peas and 80 cm for rowing peas.

Step 4: Close the grooves

Close the furrows, bringing the soil back using the rake.
Tamp with the back of the tool so that the seeds are in good contact with the ground.

Step 5: Water

Water in fine rain so as not to risk bringing out the seeds by too strong a spray. Afterwards, be sure to add a lot of water to your crops, especially during high heat periods when their leaves could dry out.

Step 6: Protect your seedlings (optional)

Protect… or take the risk of trying again? It is up to each gardener to answer this question! In spring, the young shoots are so popular with birds that they can disappear much faster than it took them time to grow! You can protect yourself from this inconvenience by protecting them with twigs or a net that you will put on your crops.

Step 6: Butte the plants

Once the peas have reached 15 cm high, butte them by bringing the soil of the furrow along the stem. This will prevent the foot from loosening when picking.

Step 6: Set up oars

As soon as your peas are well out of the ground, set up oars to allow them to climb by means of the tendrils they emit and thus facilitate picking by developing in height. The ideal support is made up of very branched branches (elm or hazel type) whose ends are planted in the ground. Count oars one meter high for dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties and two meters high for oars. If there are no branches, use wire netting or a net.